Though more common in winter, with the added road salt and debris, a spoke can break at any time – but replacing one is a relatively straight-forward procedure.

The worst-case scenario is a broken spoke – which typically occurs at the ‘elbow’ or the nipple – on the driveside of the rear wheel.

You will need a cassette removal tool, a wrench, a chain whip and a spoke key in that instance but with the right tools, replacement is relatively straightforward.

Remove the cassette and the broken spoke first, pulling the latter from the hub flange, and then remove the tyre, as the tyre can offer purchase when removing the cassette.

Next remove the rim tape and the nipple of the broken spoke, taking extra care to ensure the nipple does not fall into the rim as it can be a nightmare to get out.

Before replacing the spoke pay attention to the orientation and lacing of the unbroken spokes and follow the pattern (more information here), threading the spoke through the hub flange, feeding it through the rim and dropping the nipple over it – again taking care to stop it falling inside the rim.

A screwdriver can be used to tighten the nipple, though some may prefer a nipple driver – particularly if you have  more than just one to replace.

Tighten the spoke – theoretically to the tension of the broken one – and check the trueness of the wheel by placing it in the bike (it should fit properly between the brake pads, without rubbing, if you have done it correctly) and then, if you are satisfied, replace the rim tape, tyre and – if it was the rear wheel – the cassette.

Again, for more information, check out our detailed step-by-step guide here.