Headset

If you think you’re experiencing a creak from the headset, the cause could actually be coming from any number of the bearings, caps and bolts which tie the whole area together, including the stem and handlebar (see below for more on those bits). That means checking the whole area bit-by-bit to ensure you find the route cause.

As Alec Griffiths, an experienced bike mechanic from local bike shop Cadence Cycles in Bath, explains, the chances are that the sealed cartridge bearings normally found in the headset setup, which allow the handlebar to turn freely, are still in good condition.

“That’s nearly always the case, but like a lot of creaks it’s the dirt that can work its way in with splashback from the road which usually affects the bottom part of the headset. Loosen it off, and get a rag in there to clean it out and that should solve your problem,” he says.

“It’s always worth checking you’ve tightened everything back together properly again, too – so hold the front wheel between your legs and try to turn the bars. It’s easy to rush this – I’ve even done it myself on my own bike and found the front wheel is moving slightly independently of the bars. Not ideal!”

Handlebar and shifters

While it’s rare to find problems with the actual bar itself – unless you’ve had a crash which has physically damaged it – it’s always recommended that you use a light application of assembly grease at the contact point between it and the stem to reduce the chance of issues here.

Where problems can arise is in the brake lever area, especially on newer hydraulic levers for disc brakes.

“Because there’s no spring holding out the lever in the same way as a mechanical lever, the hydraulic lever can just sit and rattle around slightly,” says Griffiths. As a result, it’s worth making sure any hydraulic setups are regularly checked and fine-tuned if necessary, he adds.

Cables

Brake and gear cables are subject to plenty of wear and tear – and particularly the former if they’ve been used in anger and stretched over a period of time. In fact, cables sat unused for a month of so can also experience stretch and wear, simply from exposure and from being sat idle.

George Gori, mechanic for London-based Sigma Sport, recommends changing out the cables every six months to ensure cable stretch doesn’t begin to impede the effectiveness of the brakes, and the slickness of your shifting. Even if you have internal cable routing, this doesn’t guarantee protection from the elements.

“Internally routed cables can drag in water and dirt through the application and reapplication of the brake lever. As a result, they can get grippy and sluggish, not giving the feel of a shop-new bike. It’s wise to apply grease to the clean interface points, giving a hydrophobic seal between the cable and the elements.”

Griffiths adds: “The plastic lining inside can also become worn, so when you turn the bars you get a creaking or grinding sound. For a quick fix you can just spray some lube in there, but that’ll only really work for one ride or so, so the real fix is to change them out completely.”

Seatpost

The seatpost is a particularly common area for creaks to emerge –-simply because of the force that goes through this area when a rider is seated in the saddle. However, it’s often confused with the bottom bracket as the area which is actually causing the creaking noise.

“The assumption is usually that the bottom bracket is the source, but that’s not always true,” says Gori. “If you want to try to narrow down if it’s the seatpost or saddle rails, try coasting along with your feet unclipped, and dangling to the sides. This puts force through the saddle and seatpost joints, without stressing the bottom bracket. If you can still hear a click, you can focus your efforts higher up the bike.”

A clean interface is key to a silent seatpost, claims Griffiths. “Pop it out, clean it, and get inside and wipe it out as much as you can,” he says. “I always get a cloth wrapped around a screwdriver to get in there as far as I can.”

Interestingly, it can also be the frame design which can lead to creaks emerging from the seatpost area.

“With a seattube which tapers away into a flared bottom bracket area, the actual length of seatpost gripped by the tube can be less, increasing the chances of a creak,” adds Griffiths.

“Additionally, carbon seatposts can swell slightly too, so it’s worth bearing that in mind that while this can get it stuck, it can also cause a creak as well. Also, make sure you don’t over-tighten the clamp – you can usually tell if this has happened because the resulting split tends to follow the line of the split in the frame. And, of course, there’s the usual caking of mud and water which can cause a creak, too.”

Saddle

The saddle is equally like to cause a creak, particularly where the saddle rails clamp into the seatpost brackets. Making sure these are cleaned and greased – especially during the winter season – will allay most creaking and prolong the life of your potentially expensive saddle of choice. Also, bear in mind the materials; remember, carbon paste if you have carbon rails.

Additionally, unless you’re riding with mudguards, the saddle clamp itself is right in the path of splashback from the rear wheel, and with that, water and dirt often covers this area, inevitably working its way in and causing a problem.

“Another area worth checking out is in the saddle itself, where the rails meet the saddle body,” advises Griffiths. “These can get dry, so every now and then spray a lube into these joints to lubricate them, and loosen any dirt which might have worked its way in there.”

Wheels

More often than not, creaks from wheelsets emanate from the skewers, which thread through the wheel and fasten it to the dropouts in the fork and stays.

“It can simply be a case of not having done them up properly – it’s important that they’re tight,” says Gori. “In this area, you can have aluminium, carbon and steel touching each other, so it’s worth making sure they’re greased and clean, especially when the weather is adverse.”

Griffiths adds: “It can also be the spoke heads in the wheel, which will give a more rattly sound. This can happen if they work loose or become dry. Again, ensuring the nipples are tight and the wheel is true is good practice, and lubricating the spoke heads, too. Also pay attention to see if the crossed spokes of the rear wheel are rubbing against one another.”

Finally, it’s also worth taking off the cassette and applying a little grease to the freehub splines – this will make fitting easier and quiet operation more likely.

Pedals

Finally, pedals are another potential source of creaking – either from the pedal body, axle and bearings, or cleat.

“If your cleats can move around in the pedals housing, that can be a potential indicator of wear in the outer cage (pedal body),” says Griffiths. “The springs inside the pedal can also become dry – keep these cleaned and lubricated.

“The bearings can also age after a long period of time,” he adds. “It’s worth removing the pedals and checking for grinding and play.”

The cleat/pedal interface can also be a source of noise – again, if that’s the case, you should apply some grease to the cleat bolt threads. Greasing the contact points between the pedal and cleat, and changing your cleats when worn to remove any potential unwanted rocking due to wear, can also help eliminate noise. You could also be the culprit if your shoe is rubbing on the crank arm.

Finally, one more snippet of advice from Griffiths for SRAM users.

“If you’re running a SRAM groupset, some require the use of washers between the pedal and crank arm. If you don’t use those, you can find a creak can emerge. In my experience, this isn’t well-marked, so make sure you don’t lose these if they’re supplied.”